1,237 Stairs

I have climbed 509 steps in the Cologne Cathedral in Germany. I have run up steps to the peaks of temples in Mexico. I summited the highest peak in Colorado, Mount Elbert at over 14,400 feet.

Today Daniel and I made 1,237 steps up the Tiger Cave Temple (Wat Tham Sua). It was hot. It was humid. It was our first day without rain since maybe we arrived in Thailand. The journey, however, had an impact unlike any others.

Let me back up.

A few days ago we left Kata on a sorng-ta-ou toward Phuket. At the bus station in Phuket we took an air-conditioned, bathroom provided bus to Krabi. Along the way, karst peaks jutted out from the ground and we both became excited about the climbing ahead of us. From Krabi we took another sorng-ta-ou to the ferry in Ao Nang. Raining, windy, and water choppy we then caught a longtail boat to Railay West. There are four main pieces to the Railay puzzle. Tonsai is  the most western beach and separated by karst cliffs. If you desire to go to Tonsai there are 3 ways: longtail boat, climbing through the karst jungle, or waiting for low tide and then rock hopping through boulders. Tonsai is the "grittier climber's retreat" as our LonelyPlanet guide suggests. Grittier, maybe. But more friendly, definitely. The food is cheaper, probably better, and the locals treat you more than another climber/tourist upon first greeting. Railay West is just east of Tonsai and west of Railay East. Say that 10 times fast! It is the "resort" beach. It is cleaner and the private mini-homes there rock. We met two climbers from Australia that said they splurged on their last few days and got a really nice room (for $100/night), with AC, dry, free DVDs and more. But that is not where we stayed.

Discoloration of photo cannot be explained

We stayed behind the neat, cobble paths. We walked through a constructions site and around heavy equipment that was moving total tons of metal objects in order to rejoin our path. From there we headed back into the jungle toward a "resort" I had read about with bunjalows up higher in the mountains and, more importantly, with good reviews. But Railay Cabana closes for the low season so we stopped at the resort below it. Lonely Planet rated Phutawan with a "Top Choice!" logo beside the name. Top choice, maybe if you spend double the price and stay in the multistory mansion. We opted for a bungalow at $10 a night, and even checked it out beforehand. To save reading, I will just say it was bad. The rain made it humid and everything was wet. Our bed was damp and the bug net had large holes scattered throughout. Please be reminded that we were uncomfortably moist for three days, spent much of our night keeping our anonymous rodent friend at bay, and had not showered because really what was the point? Oh, and that plastic bag I used to fill the rodent hole (that had previously been "fixed" with duct tape) was gone by the next morning. The peepy little creature also ate my headphones and when I asked the front desk for money to replace them, they mistook me for saying, "please cut them up and retwist together the wires and tape it back together." Which did not work. Railay East was dirty. Garbage everywhere. I do not blame the Thais but rather the climbing and tourist community that goes there, drinks to the point of loss of practical decision making, and throws everything into the thin mangrove forest and open water that lines the path. It was very sad, Dan and I could not shake the feeling of regret for going there and contributing to the mess.

Retribution was found our second to last evening. We followed the path to PraNang (Princess) cave. This beach is much cleaner and prettier. There are a couple of restaurants and one or two nice resorts, so it doesn't receive as much of the heavy littering crowd. There seem to be more determined movements to keep the beach clean on this side of the bay. At least there are more conservation information signs posted. The beach is overhung with karst and remains dry all the time for climbing or bouldering. We went back the next day and with the low tide we were invited to explore caves further around the bend. Also, the Princess Cave   legend says that a princess crashed a boat in the cave and her spirit remains there. Fishermen once left phalluses (yes, penis structures of all sizes) for good luck.

Krabi was a sight for our very sore eyes and souls. Our hotel is modern and clean, and smack in the center of all the markets. The day market can be seen from our window. There are two night markets and the larger of the two is just around the corner. A very early morning market that ends by 8 am is just down the street. The sorng-ta-ou we took to the temple today was just across the street. Hot shower, AC, and pretty good living right now. 

On our last night in Railay Dan and I had a reassessment talk. We reestablished what we wished to take away from this trip. It kills me to be here and not be working, volunteering, becoming part of a community. But that does not mean I have not or will not gain something. I experienced moments of doubt. Was this trip too forced because I felt it was "the right time?" Questions popped up in my head constantly. We talked about many things and both have gained a new perspective. 

Each step heading toward the temple was a step toward a goal. The fresh breeze as the top was tangible enough for evidence that I am being watched over and guided in the right direction, however difficult it may be to see right now.  And if nothing else, the quote at the top of the blog page could not be more accurate. Who will gain anything by just simply walking through the valleys? 

Shout out to Raybot for this awesome video that came at just the right time: Oh, the places you will go